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VdP des Cotes Catalanes Rouge, Domaine de l'Horizon 2009


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Made by emerging star producer of Thomas Theibert. A blend of 67% Grenache and 33% Carignan from vines that are 60 to 100 years old vines planted on schistic, calcareous marne and slate soils around Calce in Roussillon. The vineyard is farmed biodynamically. The grapes are partially whole bunch fermented, some in cement and the rest in oak, using indigenous yeasts. It is aged for about 12 months in a combination of puncheons and foudre. Vinified naturally, no additives and no added sulfites. A deeply flavored, luscious wine, with brilliant complexity and length to the finish. Extraordinary wine of Roussillon. 550 cases produced

"The 2009 Domaine de l'Horizon Rouge reflects its vineyard make-up in two-thirds Carignan (4 hectares of which Teibert claims are centenarian); one-third Grenache (whereas the impressive 2007--reviewed in issue 18e--was mostly Grenache, due to rampant oidium in the Carignan). Interestingly, the parcels here are evenly divided among dark Marne, chalk, and schistic soils. The mingling of tart red (here, red currant) and black (here, blackberry) fruit along with invigorating impingement of fresh ginger; seeming suffusion of chalk and smoky black tea; and clean carnal depth, once again--as was the case in 2007-- remind me of certain Burgundian Pinot Noirs. The crystalline sense of finishing mineral impingement, vibratory energy, and sheer refreshment have me imagining a hypothetical blending with Grenache Gris, although any bunches of that variety that have made it into Teibert's red are small in number. Make no mistake, this is a light-weight, extremely nervous red that might get on some people's nerves, though I'm bound to say that if one casts prejudice to the wind and concentrates solely on the intrigue emanating from the glass, it's hard for me to imagine anyone who would not be impressed. A truly (color-) blind tasting of this would be most interesting, and I would never have guessed it to be a 2009. I am pretty confident it will reward over at least the next 6-8 years anyone who takes the time to open-mindedly and boldly deploy it at the dinner table." 92/100 David Schildknecht, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

"From biodynamically farmed 60- to 100-year-old Carignan and Grenache vines, this has a lovely cassis/black cherry nose, supple yet deep on the palate. Great energy and purity--sensational!" Steven Spurrier, Decanter